Comes complete with gun and hopper, compressor, electricmotor, 50' of air hose, 25' power cord, 2-wheel dolly and instructions Two interchangeable air stem nozzles to double the range of patterns and spray pressure Cool running, 1 HP capacitor-start electricmotor drives a rotary vane compressor that produces up to 30 psi when used with 3/32" air nozzle
One-year warranty Requires 20 amp circuit breaker Delivers 5.2 cfm at 125 psi Powerful 2-1/2 hp electricmotor
found in M990-HC4V's reviews: Very good - with provisos - Just received my M990 compressor after my local small engine repair shop recommended it over others. Plenty of power, great pressure and set up for two air hoses right out of the box. Seems an internal pressure valve must have gotten a piece of trash in it and it wouldn't release enough pressure to allow the motor to restart. provided excellent assistance, bottom line however is that it needed to go to the local repair shop for warranty work.
One-year warranty Automatic start/stop Overload protected, low amp draw Delivers 2.6 cfm at 125 psi Powerful 2 hp electricmotor
found in AM700-HC4V's reviews: AM700 vs AM780 and M790 - Upon inspection the AM700 is clearly a consumer model compressor. The 700 has a visibly less expensive cylinder and motor assembly. It also requires more oil than the am78 pump, not to mention the cheezy air filter. Although as a consumer model I believe this unit is far superior to an oiless compressor.
One-year warranty Rugged cast-iron cylinder Performs at above average working pressures Delivers 3.6 cfm at 125 psi Powerful 2 hp electricmotor
found in AM780-HC4V's reviews: Great But ... - I have several compressors, but since this is light and runs on 15 am circuits it is the preference for small volume needs such as small nail guns, tires and especially jobs where transporting the compressor is required. Example, a framer and helper will easily outrun the production capability of the compressor with one gun. On a hot day with poor air circulation the motor start capacitor blew. Since this was the only issue with the tool I decided it made sense to repair. My standard motor repair shop wouldn't touch it. The Emglo repair center wanted an exhorbitant amount for the capacitor ($$). The time I spent calling around and shopping for the replacement part far exceeded the value of simply replacing the compressor unit.
One-year warranty Rugged cast-iron cylinder High-profile gauge panel Delivers 3.6 cfm at 125 psi Powerful 2 hp electricmotor
found in M790-HC4V's reviews: Defective out of the box - I was very excited to receive my Emglo M790-HC4V aircompressor today. After I installed the oil in the compresor crankcase and turned it on, the motor hummed loudly as though it had a shorted winding and refused to turn the compressor. After close examination, I was surprised to see that the compressor / motor unit is mostly a white metal casting that is secured to the chassis with self tapping screws.
30-day satisfaction guarantee and one-year warranty on parts and labor 9 amp motor runs at 1,700 rpm, providing 4.1 cubic feet per minute of free air Line regulator with gauge Direct-drive electricmotor 2.3 cubic feet per minute at 90 psi
Tank Size: 60 gallon vertical Max PSI: 135 PSI PSI: 11.3 CFM @ 90 PSI; 10.3 CFM @ 135 PSI Volts: 230 Volts Motor: 3 HP with thermal overload and manual reset - single phase motor
found in SS3L3's description:Product Description
Maximum air power! More delivered air (CFM) gives you the power to do the job right and in less time.
found in SS3L3's reviews: Perfect -
I have owned this aircompressor for about two years now and it was worth every penny. The compressor is excellent, So far I have run my compressor about 100 hours thus far. It has always supplied my with an ample amount of air when using air tools except if I run my impact for 10 minuets continuously then it drops to 70 psi. I would recommend this compressor to any one with out hesitation. I turned it on two years ago and it has been on ever sense it kicks on about every hour because there is a leak I have not fixed in my air system. Yes it puts of a lot of heat but if you do the math PV=nRt you will see that a lot of heat is given off compressing that much air. Yet with all this heat it has never caused it to malfunction, and the motor has a thermal over load/over heat button which has never tript on mine even after 8 hours in the summer. As well as the complaints as to the power of the motor if they were true that would mean that the motor was only 30% efficient thus it would be putting out 2320 watts of heat which it is not. Also in response to the allegations that the tank was going to over pressurize If the switch failed and it continued to run there is a spring loaded safety valve on the power switch on the compressor so it is not possible to over pressurize it, mine hits about 133 before it kicks off. A cheap way to get more CFM... but its still cheap. - This aircompressor is identical to my Ingersoll Rand SS3L3 compressor that I purchased through Northern Tool in the early summer of 2005. This is the first aircompressor that I have ever owned, so it was a learning experience from the start.
It is recommended that you purchase the IR SS3L3 startup kit as the compressor is delivered to you without any oil in it. When I plugged in the compressor to test it out, I found that the motor continued to run even as the gauge on the tank passed 130 psi.
I ran the compressor off and on for several months without any major issues. a little bit of die grinding, I rotated the tires on my car using the impact wrench and air ratchet, I used it to blow dust off my work bench and check the air in my tires on a routine basis. I bought the compressor because I have several project cars, and I would like to begin the serious work of restoring them. Recently, I have been looking at plans for a sandblasting cabinet, and I am starting to doubt that this compressor will stand up to the task of sand blasting for extended periods. Things I have learned about the compressor since its purchase that have led me to this conclusion:
1. This unit uses a 3 HP "split phase" motor, which can be run on a standard 30A 230V household outlet - it draws about 15A during continuous duty. (I swap between my compressor and my dryer on the only 230V outlet in my house). The motor does not output a true 3 HP at all times. At startup the motor may approach its 3 peak horsepower, but during normal operation it may only be outputting half that power, so in truth it is essentially a 1.5 HP motor. This borderline false advertising is similar to peak and RMS power ratings in audio amplifiers, though it is fairly standard operating procedure to rate motors in this fashion. It is not a question of efficiency - it is an intended feature built into the windings of the motor. The motor runs at 3450 RPM. Though it is quieter than a direct drive unit like the 30 gallon compressors sold at most hardware stores, 3450 RPM is still quite fast. With the pulley ratios, the compressor crank spins at 1200 RPM. Heavier duty systems might have the AC motor running at 1200-1750 RPM with the compressor running at ~700 RPM or less, resulting in a much quieter setup. There is apparently no available rebuild kit for the compressor itself, according to the local IR dealer, though they do sell gaskets and the oiling kit. It is a two cylinder, single stage compressor. The "valves" in the head are what I believe are called "reed valves", which are simply spring loaded "fingers" that cover holes in the cylinder head, and they move with the blowing/sucking of air as the pistons move in the cylinders (no mechanical actuation of the valves). The compressor can run fairly hot, especially when pressurizing the tank from zero pressure. I would like to add an intercooler in line to the tank as the compressed air is quite hot, and I think the compressor itself could use some more cooling. I bought some copper to fab up a larger heat sink for the compressor housing, though I haven't made it yet. The flywheel on the compressor is designed to move air over the unit, but I still think the design needs improvement. This makes me want to install a condensor between the compressor and tank). Copper tubing is used to route compressed air from the compressor to the tank, and I think some improvements could be made there, as well. One could remove the compressor to change the oil, but a better soultion would be to insert a ball valve in the oil drain plug for easy draining.
IR sells the SS5L5, which uses the same 60 gallon tank, but a 5 HP split phase 3450 RPM motor running a different two piston single stage compressor.
My biggest complaints are the use of the split phase motor, the relatively cheap design of the compressor (aluminum rods and lack of rod bearings), the flimsy pressure switch, and the cheap fittings used all over the machine. I will continue to use this unit for some time, but I am already considering either building my own low RPM, true 4-5 HP aircompressor from various parts suppliers, or just purchasing a new one from a company like Eaton Compressor. Like houses, I think good advice for someone looking to buy an aircompressor is "buy the most you can afford". I for one like the idea of a compressor running at a quiet 750 RPM at a mere 73 dBa, as opposed to my high revving 1200 RPM SS3L3. Meanwhile, my criticisms of this unit are based on what I'd like to see in a compressor, that is all.
Draw(amps): 14.2 Tank Capacity (gallons): 4.3 On/Off PSI: 95-125 HP Peak: 2.5
found in GR254CTS's description:Product Description
Grip-Rite AirCompressors 2 HP 4 GAL tank ElectricCompressor This compressor is made specifically for the demanding professional.5 peak horsepower motor will supply plenty of air to keep the busiest roofing and framing crews going all day. capacity Initial oil fill included Electric, direct drive, oil splash 3400 RPM Industrial-grad motor with ball bearings for greater durability Heavy duty pump with cast-iron cylinder Overload protection with manual reset 12-monnth limited warranty Product Specifications HP Peak: 2.