18 by 10 by 22 inches; 52 pounds; 1-year warranty 1/4-inch brass Makita universal coupler Cast-iron pump and roll cage construction 3.3 cfm delivered at 90 psi; low 1,720 rpm extends motor life and lowers noise 12.4 amp, 2-horsepower, 2-1/2-gallon oiled single hot dog compressor with handle
found in MAC700's description:From the Manufacturer
The new MAC700 - Hotdog compressor by Makita is blowing away the competition with built-in features such as a super quiet motor that draws only 12.0HP AIRCOMPRESSOR 12. hot dog tank Low amp draw & oil lubricated Roll-bar handle Industrial air filter & cast iron cylinder Oil sight glass & lever handle ball valve Built-in thermal overload for motor protection MAC700 2HP AIRCOMPRESSOR.
found in MAC700's reviews: Makita Delivered - My Makita compressor was delivered 1 day after placing my order - by UPS, no special handling. Instead of a noisly BRBRBRBRAAT that my previous compressor made, this machine just purrs, and conversations can be made without raised voices right on top of the unit. Set-up consists of adding the supplied container of oil, screwing on the chrome air filter, and running the unit for 15 minutes under no load to lubricate cylinder and valves.
You won't find this compressor at Lowe's or Home Depot, and the ones you do see there are physically bigger, not much more capacity, and twice as expensive. The closest unit I could find was on eBay - 4 Gal unit oiled Eatoncompressor at $165.
Tank Size: 60 gallon vertical Max PSI: 135 PSI PSI: 11.3 CFM @ 90 PSI; 10.3 CFM @ 135 PSI Volts: 230 Volts Motor: 3 HP with thermal overload and manual reset - single phase motor
found in SS3L3's description:Product Description
Maximum air power! More delivered air (CFM) gives you the power to do the job right and in less time.
found in SS3L3's reviews: A cheap way to get more CFM... but its still cheap. - This aircompressor is identical to my Ingersoll Rand SS3L3 compressor that I purchased through Northern Tool in the early summer of 2005. This is the first aircompressor that I have ever owned, so it was a learning experience from the start.
It is recommended that you purchase the IR SS3L3 startup kit as the compressor is delivered to you without any oil in it. When I plugged in the compressor to test it out, I found that the motor continued to run even as the gauge on the tank passed 130 psi.
I ran the compressor off and on for several months without any major issues. a little bit of die grinding, I rotated the tires on my car using the impact wrench and air ratchet, I used it to blow dust off my work bench and check the air in my tires on a routine basis. I bought the compressor because I have several project cars, and I would like to begin the serious work of restoring them. Recently, I have been looking at plans for a sandblasting cabinet, and I am starting to doubt that this compressor will stand up to the task of sand blasting for extended periods. Things I have learned about the compressor since its purchase that have led me to this conclusion:
1. (I swap between my compressor and my dryer on the only 230V outlet in my house). This borderline false advertising is similar to peak and RMS power ratings in audio amplifiers, though it is fairly standard operating procedure to rate motors in this fashion. Though it is quieter than a direct drive unit like the 30 gallon compressors sold at most hardware stores, 3450 RPM is still quite fast. With the pulley ratios, the compressor crank spins at 1200 RPM. Heavier duty systems might have the AC motor running at 1200-1750 RPM with the compressor running at ~700 RPM or less, resulting in a much quieter setup. There is apparently no available rebuild kit for the compressor itself, according to the local IR dealer, though they do sell gaskets and the oiling kit. It is a two cylinder, single stage compressor. The "valves" in the head are what I believe are called "reed valves", which are simply spring loaded "fingers" that cover holes in the cylinder head, and they move with the blowing/sucking of air as the pistons move in the cylinders (no mechanical actuation of the valves). The compressor can run fairly hot, especially when pressurizing the tank from zero pressure. I would like to add an intercooler in line to the tank as the compressed air is quite hot, and I think the compressor itself could use some more cooling. I bought some copper to fab up a larger heat sink for the compressor housing, though I haven't made it yet. The flywheel on the compressor is designed to move air over the unit, but I still think the design needs improvement. This makes me want to install a condensor between the compressor and tank). Copper tubing is used to route compressed air from the compressor to the tank, and I think some improvements could be made there, as well. One could remove the compressor to change the oil, but a better soultion would be to insert a ball valve in the oil drain plug for easy draining.
IR sells the SS5L5, which uses the same 60 gallon tank, but a 5 HP split phase 3450 RPM motor running a different two piston single stage compressor.
My biggest complaints are the use of the split phase motor, the relatively cheap design of the compressor (aluminum rods and lack of rod bearings), the flimsy pressure switch, and the cheap fittings used all over the machine. I will continue to use this unit for some time, but I am already considering either building my own low RPM, true 4-5 HP aircompressor from various parts suppliers, or just purchasing a new one from a company like EatonCompressor. Like houses, I think good advice for someone looking to buy an aircompressor is "buy the most you can afford". I for one like the idea of a compressor running at a quiet 750 RPM at a mere 73 dBa, as opposed to my high revving 1200 RPM SS3L3. Meanwhile, my criticisms of this unit are based on what I'd like to see in a compressor, that is all.